Toyota Olympic if You Knock Me Down Ill Get Up Again

ERMB [OP] Well-Known Member

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Pace past Step, How to Spray Paint with quality results.

I've had a few people ask me what steps were involved in painting my cap and bumper so I thought I'd put together this thread to help people who are attempting to pigment or repaint parts of their truck.
For the record, I would like to state that I am not a professional automotive painter, and I'yard sure some of the things I accept listed are not something a seasoned painter would do. These are just steps I took when I worked on some of my bigger paint projects that yielded pretty good results.

If you take information to add or think I should remove anything from my process please let me know and feel free to post suggestions as well as pigment work you've done! I did non seem to find any threads like this so hopefully this will become beneficial to someone out there.....

I did lots of research on how to use the products too as practiced my technique on other items and projects leading up to this ane. Hopefully you can observe this helpful besides.
I watched some YouTube videos on how to paint a automobile, but I found this video on the Automotive Touch Up site to be the nigh helpful.

Materials:
Low tack masking record one/2in and 1in.
Paper or masking paper to embrace windows
Tack fabric
Variety of sandpapers mostly of the finer variety unless you need something with more ambitious dust.
Super Fine Sanding pads
Automotive Primer
Filler Primer
Spray Paint
Articulate Gloss
Spray tin can handle sprayer - Made spraying much easier and vastly reduced the amount of fatigue your one finger would get afterward merely a very brusque amount of time spraying without one.

Here we get!

one. First launder it really well using just water and a sponge or a very small-scale amount of dish soap to remove any wax buildup from normal motorcar wash soap. Washing information technology get-go is of import so you don't mistakenly sand droppings into the paint making swirls or worse.

ii. Sand with a fine dust 300+ (not very abrasive) sandpaper, then terminate with a sanding pad like above. I used a power sander and a random orbital sander for the bulk of my sanding of the larger surfaces. All your really going for is to make the clear glaze dull instead of shiny. Once you knock downward the gloss it makes for a much better adhesion to new paint.

3. Wash all dust and debris again, let dry out.

iv. Tape off your windows and hardware, I used 18in wide paper that comes on a roll from Lowes.

5. Have a agglomeration of Tack rags on manus. Right earlier yous pigment give information technology a expert wipe down.

Side note: I focused more on the sides because I had a feeling that if I ran out of pigment I wanted it to exist in the least visible surface area. This is too exactly what happened. I had 3.5 cans left by the time I finished with my bumper, all the sides got three nice even coats just the elevation simply got ane.5 coats. If you ordered five cans I think you could cover it easily.

half-dozen. Kickoff with your Primer shown above - For my get-go glaze I used an automotive primer. Then followed up with 2 coats of automotive filler primer with nigh five minutes waiting (drying time) between coats. Filler Primer is a slightly thicker primer meant for helping to hide small scratches and such.
I chose a dark greyness primer because it was closest to the colour I was eventually going to paint. If yous have a light color paint become with the white primer, red and any darker paints use blackness primer. The ruddy primer is good for medium colors as well.
When you spray your first coat, don't start off trying to get total coverage right away, it needs to be built up to a nice opaque coat so you don't end up with runs. Starting time out spraying from about 12 inches or and so away which will requite you a low-cal mist on the surface. Later on you've practical a thin coat over everything gradually decrease your distance from which you are spraying until you are consistently spraying each pass from about four-half dozen inches from the surface. I institute spraying this way reduced my drips to all but 1, and that was because I deviated from my system.
After the 3rd coat let dry for almost an 60 minutes. I did a wet sanding with a 800 grit sanding pad, then you could clean off the dust sludge with a damp towel a few times. (I really done with a hose and a sponge, but had to re-tape and mask off the whole affair once more.) Next become over it again with a tack rag to make certain all the dust is gone from the surface before you lot put on your base color paint.
(Side note: do not endeavour to wipe up any drips or sags, wait for that glaze is dry and sand the drip until it is smooth and flush with the area around information technology.)

7. Spray paint sometimes has an adjustable nozzle, make sure the nozzle is adjusted to the vertical position so y'all stop up with a wide verticle swath as you lot spray. When I spray, I do this with primer, base, and the gloss topcoat, always keep the spray tin moving, don't always stop midway or modify management partway through or across the surface.
Spray the area you intend to pigment with broad sweeping motions starting a niggling before the area you intend to paint and catastrophe a bit afterward. I used iii coats of base color, I waited most 10-15 minutes between coats with the colour to permit the paint get past the tacky bespeak.
Once it's dry out to the bear on utilise the tack cloth and wipe off all your overspray which accumulates like dust and will ruin your paint task. Repeat this procedure betwixt each coat until your colour looks uniform in consistency throughout.
(side notation - I was using a metallic color which requires constant shaking between swaths as y'all are spraying otherwise you cease upward with streaks of more or less metal depending on how much had settled between passes.)

eight. Gloss coat, I used the same method as laying down the base of operations coat letting the pigment get dry to the bear on between coats. The more coats you exercise the glossier it will get. I did three coats of gloss on my cap and bumper, I wish I was able to get two more washed before I ran out of my stockpile of gloss.
No affair what, never use different gloss clearcoats, and make sure they are suitable for automotive finishes. Each pigment manufacturer has different idea of what is glossy and they don't all match and they don't all work with automotive finishes with quality results.

I ordered mine from http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ Y'all can go everything from sand paper, to paint and solvents and it all tin be purchased from this site. I had many of the materials already then I only needed the base glaze and clear for my projects.

I hope you observe this helpful, post some pics to let me know how it turned out if you end up doing it on your own. All-time of Luck on your own projects!

Finished Production:

Terminal edited: Jun 20, 2016
ERMB [OP] Well-Known Member

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Who would have guessed y'all could paint.... .
Bully write up, always find looking over a post like this helpful when getting ready to paint.
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Whatever recommendations on where to paint? And the how much you lot call back you spent to paint the trounce? Ballpark toll is totally okay. Thanks for all the info here!
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ERMB [OP] Well-Known Member

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Where to physically pigment or where to buy?
I ordered mine from
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
You can get everything from sand paper, to paint and solvents and it all tin can be purchased from this site. I had many of the materials already so I only needed the base glaze and clear for my projects. I recollect all total information technology was $125 for paint. The base colors are xx per tin. For a LB cap, I used four cans on mine and ran sparse on top. I'd get for 6 on yours. 3 even coats all over.
Every bit for where, I painted everything in my backyard. The key was tack cloths. Wipe down oft when you're outside.
Promise that helps.

Last edited: February 24, 2016
BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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What brand tack cloths did you employ? And practice you know if theyre they all effectually the same quality?
ERMB [OP] Well-Known Member

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I but used whatever the Lowes brand is BlueHawk I recall. They're pretty much nonetheless I recall.
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Give thanks you sir! I capeesh it
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Does anyone really intendance?

That's some awesome info and advice Scott!
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Did y'all ever put clear coat on that plate bumper? Simply curious.
ERMB [OP] Well-Known Member

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I did, three coats. Information technology came out pretty darn well. I have one area I demand to touch upward due to a bolt that should have been zink coated but wasn't.
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One more quick question sir, how many cans of clear coat did you have in your stockpile? and how many would yous recommend for a LB cap?
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Great thread Scott. Very informative and helpful.
I painted my rear bumper, grill environs, and badges. I had one can of clear coat from Automotive touchup. I did 4 coats for each item and barely fabricated it.
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thank you marker, i am thinking almost painting my cap, forepart bumper and mayhap the rear bumper as well and then im getting x cans of base and articulate and hoping i tin can go heavy on the clear on the cap to help it look good for longer.
If you use Automotive touchup'due south clearcoat, make sure you get their replenishing cream, or whatever they telephone call it. Its the blue cream that you lot utilize 24-48 hours after clearcoating.
Their clearcoat oxidizes while drying and the foam volition strip that oxidized layer. If you don't purchase it the paint will expect very foggy and dull.

Also brand certain you lot don't wait to long between coats when clearcoating. I think Automotive touchup recommends 10 mins. If it drys to much between coats it'll oxidize, and you lot'll paint over that oxidation.
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Thanks, good tip. Ill definetly be looking into this